Italian chicories are omnipresent in our garden. This Radicchio di Verona has burgundy-veined leaves and white ribs. Vibrant and slightly bitter, these greens are delicious raw; a salad with fat ribbons of shaved Parmigiano is a delightful midday meal. When wilted in pancetta drippings and topped with poached eggs, these extraordinary greens become positively meaty. I’ve read bitter greens are a tonic for the liver, which is why I always make an effort to start dinner with an old Barbera d'Alba and finish with a big bowl of chicories…